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Home > Walks > Region > Greater London > London Deptford Return to Walks

District 45

Travel back in time to London’s Deptford 100 years ago

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Greenwich, with its spectacular riverfront location and grand buildings, is associated with England’s glory days as a maritime nation. But its neighbour Deptford is steeped in just as much history of the sea. It was where ships docked and unloaded their cargos, where foreigners came to learn the art of shipbuilding, where sailors waved farewell to England as they headed out across the empire. 

This walk paints a picture of life in Deptford over a hundred years ago, when it was a working neighbourhood of busy docks and wharves, busy streets and overcrowded houses, poverty and deprivation alongside affluence and comfort. It uses observations recorded by the social reformer, Charles Booth, who did a survey of poverty in London. There are also insights from other writers – diarists, novelists and historians – who describe the Deptford of the Victorian era.

Fast forward one hundred years and find out how some things have changed in Deptford and other things have stayed the same, ranging from the condition of the streets and housing to industry and employment. 

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Walk Info

Distance:

2 ½ miles

Level:
A flat route mostly on urban streets

tooltipA flat route mostly on urban streets

Suitable for:
A completely step-free route

tooltipA completely step-free route

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Region:
Greater London
Setting:
Towns & Cities
Landscape:
Historic landscapes People in the landscape Working landscapes
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Start:
Big anchor, Deptford High Street
Finish:
St Paul’s churchyard
Getting there:

tooltipNearest station Deptford Bridge (DLR)

tooltipNearest stations Deptford and New Cross

tooltipServed by various bus routes

tooltipOn National Cycle Route 4

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London Deptford

Part of Charles Booth’s poverty map of Deptford (1902)
© Charles Booth Online Archive, LSE

London Deptford

Contemporary street map of Deptford
© Charles Booth Online Archive, LSE

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Route map

Select pins on the map to find out more about each point of interest on the walk

Downloads

Download all the walk resources or select individual items below

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all walk resources

All files, total size: 30.69 MB

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Photo Gallery

Here is a selection of things that you might see on the walk - click on an image to view full size

Charles Booth in 1902, the social reformer who created a ‘poverty map’ of London
© Charles Booth Online Archive, Library of the London School of Economics and Political Science (http://booth.lse.ac.uk)



The Laban Dance Centre, designed by world-renown architects Jaques Herzog and Pierre De Meuron
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Booth’s maps can be laid alongside contemporary maps
© Charles Booth Online Archive, Library of the London School of Economics and Political Science (http://booth.lse.ac.uk)





The New Foreign Cattle Market, Deptford (1872)
©The British Library


Memorial plaque for Christopher Marlowe, buried in the graveyard of St Nicholas Church
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain


The elaborate St Paul’s Church in Deptford, built between 1712 and 1730
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain





St Nicholas Green, a public park today just as it was 100 years ago
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain





A View of Deptford (1850)
© The British Library
Mill Lane, now Brookmill Road (c1890)
Lewisham Heritage (Creative Commons License)


Portrait of Peter the Great by Paul Delaroche (1838)
Wikimedia Commons (Creative Commons License)






International produce for sale on Deptford High Street
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain



The railings at Rowley House are recycled – they were stretchers in the Second World War
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain





Engraving of An Indiaman in Barnard’s Yard in Deptford by H Moses (1824)
© The British Library



Terraced houses in Benmore Street (c.1900), which were cleared in the 1930s
Wikimedia Commons (Creative Commons License)
Georgian houses on Albury Street, originally built for wealthy sea captains
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain







The Half Penny Hatch bridge over Deptford Creek
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain







Deptford Pottery (1841)
© The British Library
The big anchor at the end of the High Street is one of many clues to Deptford’s maritime history
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain


Much of the Victorian terraced housing in Deptford has been cleared but some evidence remains, such as this fireplace on Crossfield
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain


The warship St Albans at Deptford in 1747
Wikimedia Commons (Creative Commons License)


Gravestone in St Paul’s churchyard of the Tahitian prince, Mydiddee, who came to Deptford with Captain Bligh
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain   







A decorative door lintel, Albury Street
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
View across the Thames from Deptford towards Canary Wharf
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Deptford is a very multicultural area, as seen in the range of shops on the High Street
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Booth’s survey notes from Copperas Street say: “South side is old dilapidated houses, windows broken, others closely curtained. Low labouring class” (Ref: B368 pp24-25)
© Charles Booth Online Archive, Library of the London School of Economics and Political Science (http://booth.lse.ac.uk) 
The pumping station at Deptford, part of Joseph Bazalgette’s grand sewer network for London - built in 1864 and still operational today
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Statue of Peter the Great, commemorating his visit to Deptford in 1698
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Booth’s map shows the riverside wharves at Deptford; Creek Row and Deptford Green are purple indicating mixed areas of people who are comfortable and others poor
© Charles Booth Online Archive, Library of the London School of Economics and Political Science (http://booth.lse.ac.uk)
Clues to Deptford’s maritime history are all around
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Deptford High Street
Lewisham Heritage (Creative Commons License)
The viaduct of the London and Greenwich Railway at Deptford, built in the 1830s
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
General Steam Navigation Company (c1841), which had a large yard at Stowage in Deptford
© The British Library
Brook Street Ragged School, from the Illustrated London News (17 December 1853)
© The National Archive 
Plaque marking the site of Deptford Ragged School, founded in 1844
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Victorian engineering: a railway bridge that can be raised to allow ships to enter Deptford Creek
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Statue of Peter the Great overlooking the Thames
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Deptford Power Station (1890)
Courtesy of Magpie Resource Library
St Nicholas Church in Deptford dates back nine centuries
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
As it was 100 years ago when Booth made his observations, Deptford’s residential areas are mixed - social housing such as 1920s blocks on Deptford Green (left) are juxtaposed with new private apartment blocks such as Creekside Village (right)
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Booth’s survey notes from Addey Street in Deptford say: “Officer went into a house here to arrest a man at 5am. Found father, mother and 5 children in one room. All rooms are small. The inspector reckons this is worst part of Deptford.” (Ref: B368 pp10-11)
© Charles Booth Online Archive, Library of the London School of Economics and Political Science (http://booth.lse.ac.uk) 
Deptford High Street
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Booth’s map shows a neighbourhood just off Deptford High Street in dark blue and black, indicating extreme poverty and the lowest class of people
© Charles Booth Online Archive, Library of the London School of Economics and Political Science (http://booth.lse.ac.uk)
Victorian terraced houses on Prince Street (1931)
Lewisham Heritage (Creative Commons License)
An advert for Trickett’s from 1850 shows that shops on Deptford High Street have long been stocking international produce
Lewisham Heritage (Creative Commons License)
The pond and garden at the corner of Borthwick Street and Watergate
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Pyne Brothers store on Lewisham Way (1891)
Lewisham Heritage (Creative Commons License)
Booth’s survey notes from Deptford High Street state: “Best shops are nearest the Broadway; decline in character being gradual to Railway arch
A View of His Majesty’s Dockyard at Deptford (1772)
© The British Library
The skull and crossbones at the entrance to St Nicholas Church is said to have inspired the Jolly Roger flag
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Wooden houses in Flagon Row, Wellington Street (c1880)
Lewisham Heritage (Creative Commons License)
Cadets on HMS Warspite dancing a hornpipe (1928)
National Maritime Museum (Creative Commons License)
Pieces of pottery embedded in a wall at the Sue Godfrey Local Nature Reserve are the remains of Deptford Pottery which operated on the site from 1682 to 1967
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
The Dog and bell pub, on this site in Deptford for over 300 years
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
The viaduct at Deptford (1841) on the London and Greenwich Railway, which was the first steam railway to have a terminus in the capital, the first of any to be built specifically for passenger service, and the first example of an elevated railway
© The British Library
Watergate Street (no date)
Lewisham Heritage (Creative Commons License)
Landing stages on the Thames at Deptford, where coal was delivered for Ferranti’s nearby power station – the world’s first commercial electricity plant
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
A portrait supposedly of Christopher Marlowe (1585), who died in a brawl in Deptford in 1593
Wikimedia Commons (Creative Commons License)
Part of Crossfield estate, built in the 1920s to replace Victorian terraced houses
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain
Booth’s map of the triangle of Deptford Broadway; red indicates that the area is middle-class and well-to-do
© Charles Booth Online Archive, Library of the London School of Economics and Political Science (http://booth.lse.ac.uk)



Fish stall on Deptford High Street
Rory Walsh © RGS-IBG Discovering Britain

Experiences

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Learn more

Find out more about the walk story and places of interest along the route

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Caroline’s Miscellany

Blog featuring Deptford

http://carolineld.blogspot.com/search/label/deptford

Deptford plans and Drawings

British Library online exhibition of 130 drawings, maps and watercolours of Deptford from the 17th century onwards

http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/onlineex/deptford/index.html

Deptford Town Talk

Guide to Deptford town centre

http://www.deptford.towntalk.co.uk/

Flying Bombs and Rockets

Details of German missiles that hit Deptford in the Second World War

http://www.flyingbombsandrockets.com/V1_summary_se14.html

Ideal Homes

Large archives on the history of South East London, including Deptford

http://www.ideal-homes.org.uk/

Panda Panda

Things to do in Deptford & New Cross

http://panda-panda.co.uk/app/download/3095290802/Thingstodo+in+SE8.pdf

South Western Electricity Historical Society

Ferranti’s Deptford Power Station

http://www.swehs.co.uk/archives/news25su.pdf

St Paul’s Church

Information on the church’s history, building and Sinfonia

http://www.achurchnearyou.com/deptford-st-paul/

Charles Booth Online Archive

Major archive featuring searchable copies of Booth’s maps

http://booth.lse.ac.uk/

The Deptford Project

Café set in a 1960s railway carriage, local links and arts information

http://www.thedeptfordproject.com/template_permalink.asp?id=156

District 45

Sean Patterson's walking tour of Deptford

http://www.charlesboothwalks.com/charlesboothwalks/Home.html

GreenScene

Lewisham Council team that maintain Deptford green spaces

http://www.lewisham.gov.uk/ContactUs/Contacts/Greenscene.htm

South London Guide: Deptford

History of the area plus a large collection of period images and maps

http://www.southlondonguide.co.uk/deptford/index.htm

St Nicholas’ and St Luke’s Church

Official parish website

http://www.deptfordchurch.org/

Credits

The RGS-IBG would like to thank the following people and organisations for their assistance in producing this Discovering Britain walk

 

Sean Patterson for creating the walk

 

Jenny Lunn for editing the walk materials

 

Rory Walsh for taking photographs

 

Caroline Millar for editing the audio commentary

 

Nick Stanworth and Alex Ricketts for additional assistance with compiling walk resources

 

The Library of the London School of Economics & Political Science for kind permission to use maps and notes from the Charles Booth Online Archive (http://booth.lse.ac.uk)

 

The British Library for permission to use images from the ‘Deptford plans and drawings’ collection

 

Lewisham Local History and Archives Centre for access to superb archive photos (https://picasaweb.google.com/lewishamheritage)

 

The National Archives for kind permission to reproduce an image from the Illustrated London News

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